How Russian Boots Took Over Western Fashion—The Surprising Story Behind the Trend

The Rise of the Russian Boot: Warmth Meets Wow-Factor

Tall, spacious shaft; unbeatable comfort; flat soles—these are the key ingredients of the Russian boots. Once almost mandatory in Russia for braving bitter winters and trudging through deep snow, these laceless boots were designed to be worn atop chunky woolen socks and paired brilliantly with opulent fur dresses. While almost forgotten today, back in their heyday, they were all the rage among English and American women who fancied both their practicality and chic allure.

From Siberia to the Sidewalks of New York and London

Between the 1910s and 1920s, Russian boots made a chilly escape from the Russian winter and found their way into Western women’s wardrobes. Women began to trade in their traditional (and rather fussy) high-heeled shoes, complete with laces or buttons, for these new boots—often pairing them with tailored coats and dresses that highlighted their avant-garde flair.

“Englishwomen who have adopted Russian boots generally justify their popularity by citing their warmth and comfort in cold weather, as well as the fact that they protect their stockings from muddy splashes and thus from overly frequent washing. But don’t tall English boots offer the same advantages?” wondered The Guardian in 1925.

Their widespread appeal wasn’t just about warmth. Russian boots became a visible symbol of modernity and a certain cosmopolitan confidence, far beyond their practical origins.

Poiret, Paris, and a Parade of Celebrities

The boot trend owes much of its Western acclaim to Denise Poiret, stylish wife and muse of famed couturier Paul Poiret from 1905 into the 1920s. During a 1913 trip to New York City, Mrs. Poiret sported a similar pair, and soon the city was abuzz. In Paris, boots designed by Favereau in bright hues were already the talk of the town. As Palmer White recounts in his book Poiret:

“During Mrs. Poiret’s stay, she launched the fashion of tall Russian boots in white, red, and tawny leather,” the New York Times wrote in 1915. “They had a square toe, flat heel, and rose well above the skirt hem. It was seen as one of Poiret’s whimsies. Today, elegant clients are clamoring for Russian boots.”

The trend was quickly picked up by stars of the era, including silent film icon Gloria Swanson and London designer Lucile (better known as Lady Duff Gordon). But it wasn’t just for the red carpet crowd—many women with far less glamorous destinies slipped their feet into Russian boots as well.

Backlash, Decline, and a Lingering Inspiration

Not everyone cheered the Russian invasion. In what was humorously called “the only Soviet victory in England,” the press sometimes painted the boots as borderline dangerous. The New York Times reported in 1925:

“Russian boots, whose arrival in England nearly wiped out the manufacture of ladies’ laces and badly damaged the silk stocking trade, have claimed a victim,” recounting the story of a young woman whose “pretty Muscovite heel got caught in the grating” as she stepped off a bus in a London street.

As the boots’ popularity continued to skyrocket, they eventually fell out of favor with style leaders always on the hunt for the next big trend. Within a few short years, Russian boots faded into obscurity, edged out by more practical options—like trusty Wellington boots.

The craze made only a brief comeback in the 1950s before vanishing again into the folds of fashion history. Still, these unique boots remain the quiet muse behind the styles we lace up and zip on today.